Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
